Shahdag, Quba and Qusar: Mountain Escapes in Every Season
From the ski runs of Shahdag to the apple orchards of Quba and the cool mountain villages of Qusar — where to stay, what to do and when to visit the northern mountain triangle.
North of Baku, about three hours away, a completely different Azerbaijan begins: rugged mountains, apple orchards, ancient mountain villages. Shahdag, Quba and Qusar are three close destinations, often combined into a single trip. In winter the main lure is snow; in summer it's the cool air and nature. I've been in both seasons; here's how to plan the triangle.
Shahdag — the winter resort
Shahdag is the country's largest ski resort. Runs of varying difficulty, cable cars, equipment rental, instructors — there's room for the beginner and the experienced skier alike. The snow season usually runs December to March. In summer Shahdag doesn't empty out: you can ride the cable car up, walk the mountain trails, enjoy the cool air. There are hotels of various levels on the resort, so it makes sense to stay a night or two and settle into the mountain's rhythm. It's easy to compare Qusar hotels on Limi, since Shahdag falls administratively within the Qusar district.
Quba — apples and mountain villages
Quba is known for green orchards, cool air and hospitality. The town itself has historic mosques and a lively bazaar, and across the river lies Red Town (Qirmizi Qasaba). Further into the mountains opens Khinalug — one of Europe's highest inhabited villages, with its own language, stone houses and almost otherworldly views. The road is rough, but worth it. The classic route is to base in Quba and give a day to Khinalug. You'll find the town's venues on the Quba page and places to eat in Quba restaurants.
Qusar and Laza
Qusar is known above all for Lezgin culture, a cool climate and its closeness to Shahdag. The most common trip from here is to the village of Laza: waterfalls tumbling down the slopes, green gorges, mountain air. In summer Laza is an ideal day out to cool off and see the falls. In central Qusar you'll find simple, heartfelt local cooking; the mountain honey and dairy are especially good.
What to eat
This region's cooking is filling, as befits the mountains. The famous northern khingal — thin dough, meat and garlicky yogurt — is a must. Kavurma on the saj, mountain trout, tandoor bread and homemade pastries are regulars at the table. Quba honey and jams make an ideal souvenir. In the cold, there's nothing better than a hot khingal or bozbash.
When to go
It all depends on the season. For skiing and snow, December–March is Shahdag's time. For greenery, waterfalls and cool walks, June–September is ideal — while the lowlands swelter, these mountains stay cool. High villages like Khinalug and Laza are only reached comfortably in spring, summer and autumn; in winter the road can close. On weekends the resort fills fast, so book ahead and bring warm clothes — even in summer the evenings are cool.